![]() ![]() Blue- faced Parrot Finch - Erythrura trichroa. Blue- faced Parrot Finch. Erythrura trichroa or Amblynura trichroa. Parrot finch. Hardiness: Hardy. Reproduction: Prolific. Scarlet Macaw Ara macao bird guide, bird care and information on the Red and Yellow Macaw, facts about Scarlet Macaw subspecies, Bolivian Scarlet Macaw, Scarlet Macaw.Lydia Dziubanek Lost 80 Pounds: Singing ability: Fair. Compatibility: Passive, mixes well with other passive species. Tend to act nervous when housed in smaller enclosures. Remainder of tail feathers blackish brown. Pale brown legs. Captive- bred birds may be challenging to visually sex this way. Cock on left, hen on right. ![]() Song. Following a metallic trilling call, the loud, shrill song consists of repeating notes and ends with a rising whistle. Credit will be given to you. Photo by Ang Hwee Yong. Photo by Peter. Nestling. Photo by Ron Crandall. Lutino mutation. Photo by Rohit. Favorite foods. Green seeds, half- ripe oats, wheat, barley; soaked seeds, greens (cucumber with seeds, sweet corn, lettuce), fruit (pear, apple, guava, papaya, figs), live food (mealworms, ant pupae, termites), small millet, canary seed. ![]() Prefers dense growth adjacent to mangroves & rainforest. Found at various elevations. They do not tend to clump together on perches nor allo- preen, although young blue- faced parrot finches fostered by Society Finches may exhibit some of these behaviors. They frequently drink & bathe. They build an oval- shaped nest out of grass, ferns, leaves, moss, and small roots in thickly- foliaged trees (such as Mango trees), shrubs, among adventitious banyan roots, or in the recess of a cliff. Young are primarily fed insects. Other health problems may include: egg- binding, intestinal parasites (since these birds tend to feed on the ground) including coccidia, yeast problems (with damp cage floors), heat stress (if chased during hot weather), and air- sac mites. These birds need open spaces for flying as well as densely planted areas for climbing and nesting, and are best suited to live in a large aviary as opposed to smaller enclosures. They do well in a mixed aviary with other passive species, but should be limited to one pair of Blue- faced parrot finches per enclosure. ![]()
Although some birds may be successfully acclimated to cooler temperatures, Blue- faced parrot finches may benefit from temperatures above 6. Due to the violent nature of their mating habits, a hen housed in a smaller enclosure may become heavily plucked by the cock. Limit one pair of Blue- faced parrot finches per breeding enclosure, as these birds do not breed as well in colony fashion. It is better to provide more hens than cocks in a colony situation.)Blue- faced parrot finch nest in a log (close up on right). Photo by Ron Crandall. Pairs may make use of semi- open and closed nest boxes hidden in dense cover, or may build their own nest in dense bushes. Extra nest sites should be provided and placed at varying heights in the enclosure. Provide coconut fiber, grass, dried leaves, and moss for building materials; some birds may also appreciate feathers to line the nest. Pre- stuff each nestbox with a handful of nesting material. Hen(s) should be introduced into the enclosure about a week before the cock(s). During the courtship display, the cock may hold nesting material in his bill, angle his tail toward the female, who angles her tail back; both birds then bob up- and- down together. The female then gives chase and the male follows while making trilling calls. When the female is ready to copulate, she quivers her tail and utters soft noises; the male then bites her head or nape feathers and copulates. A female who fails to initiate her mate's pursuit may attack and chase him. Copulation may also occur without any apparent courtship display. Both sexes construct the nest, share incubation duties, and feed the nestlings. A proper breeding diet (half- ripe seeds, sprouted seed, peas, corn, egg food, etc.) should be offered as soon as pairs are introduced. Pairs may accept live food, though it is not necessary for breeding. Hatchlings may not be fed until they are 2. The nest is kept free of fecal material, either by the parent birds cleaning their chicks' droppings from the nest, or by chicks positioning themselves to defecate outside of the nest chamber. The parents stop brooding the young when they are about 1. Young birds should be removed from the aviary shortly after weaning (about 3 weeks after fledging), and before they complete their juvenile molt to prevent the cock bird from injuring and possibly killing them. The juvenile molt into adult coloration usually takes about 2 months. Young birds should continue to be fed the breeding diet until their molt is complete, and sexes should be housed separately. Credit will be given to you! No More Green Light, Yellow Light, Red Light Behavior Management Plan!
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
August 2017
Categories |